It's a labyrinth of complicated and narrow calljones (alleys) to make your way anywhere in this city. With only 2 streets crossing through town and 2 more underground going the other way, to get around your choices here are to walk or walk.

I left the restaurant a little earlier than I wanted because I had not yet gotten the feel of the city at night, something always a good idea in an unfamiliar place.

Before bedtime, I push my legs firmly up 3 more flights of stairs to the hotel's rooftop terrace where I am stricken with awe at the sights of the city below.

On the rooftop I meet 66 year old retired Dennis. He explains his wife is not crazy about Guanajuato and gladly sends him on his way to live here a couple of months each winter. Am I looking at a reflection of my future, I wonder?

The view is just amazing. All this for a $15 per night fee.

There are 3 beds and a private bath with color TV. What's the catch. I know what you are thinking - I am the only bug in this bed tonight ;-)

There are some limitations to this place I am learning. Hot water runs from only 8AM - 11AM. But if you want it outside this window, simply yell downstairs out your own window "agua calliente" and in 10 minutes it will be flowing again. (Good

It's a cozy room. Some quirks, as I lie in the bed close to the door to read with the single desk lamp and sleep in the bed in the corner to minimize the occasional late night stair clonker. Oh, did I mention I have free wireless here too?

OK, next morning I wake up, spend about 3 hours working on photos and captions and take a walk to the terrace on the roof. WOW!

Dennis explains to me that there are rooms available down in the valley at the Sheraton for over a hundred a night. I like my little place now more than ever. Very cozy!

I'm not sure how many lifetimes one could spend up here.

Over on the side of the terrace is a covered area with full public kitchen for guest's use. There are 2 refrigerators with mini square plastic baskets labeled with our room numbers. No one stole my Leon beer in 24 hours - this place is growing on me.